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Peak Mountain 3

The Golden Staircase; pitches 3 & 4

FA Dustin
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UPDATED 

Description

These are pitches 3 & 4 of a much longer link-up named The Golden Staircase. It can be done as its own climb, as can different sections of the Staircase. Check out the climbs under the Woodstone and The Druid formations for other sections of the route.

Location

Start to left of

Rouge Element

(note to editors: the website would not let me order this climb correctly. It is to right of

Half a Man

and the recess mentioned in that route description and to left of

Rouge

).

Pitch 1: climb left edge of slab to semi-hanging belay. This is fun 5.9.

Pitch 2: climb steepening rock, turn the left edge, and climb a headwall

overhanging a deep chasm. It has great position and movement; 11a.

Walk off the top to the south, and circle back to your pack on the west side of Half and Half,

or link Sharksfin,

etc.

Protection

I don't remember an exact bolt count, but 14 or 15 quickdraws should be enough for the protection bolts and anchors.

Per

Doug Haller

: if you link the pitches, you need 16 draws plus something for the anchors.