Neon Lights

The first pitch (5.10b) is mostly a matter of commitment if you are 6'0" or taller. At 5'10, the move starts getting 'big.' The gear is only so-so and requires the leader to trust some odd holds. The climbing gets easier after the big move, but the gear does not get good for a while. Rossiter said this is "unprotectable." I disagree, but will admit that the gear is a little iffy. The second pitch (5.11a) is a blast. Tape up, take 2 sets of cams and enjoy the ride.

The protection on the "rarely done" first pitch crux is a poor pink or red tricam above some nuts that are lower down. The second pitch, which is easily reached without doing the first can be protected with a few bolts and hand-sized cams.