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Peak Mountain 3

The Gatekeeper

FA Alex Lemieux, June 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Gatekeeper

is a new route on the right side of Tower 1.

A 70m rope is barely enough to get you down. If using a 60m rope, belay at the ledge with single bolt.

Scramble up the easy slab to a high 1st bolt on the left wall. Good left hand side-pulls and stemming leads over the 1st roof. Move slightly right past the roof to gain a big ledge under 2nd roof. Once again find some good left hand side-pulls then move right and continue up past a face move with thin feet.  A final section on soft white rock with a couple pockets guards access to the anchor.

Careful of loose rocks while getting lowered on descent

Location

Located between

Rezin Scraper

and

What the Hell.

Protection

10 lead bolts an 2 bolt anchor