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Peak Mountain 3

Right Flake

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Description

This is the rightmost of the two obvious (chalked) right-leaning flakes at Knobby Wall. Start on a nice jug in the flake and follow it via fingers to a rest stance about two thirds of the way up (5.10). Make a transition to a right-hand flake and then fire the crimpy 2-move crux to a sloper jug at the lip (5.11).

Protection

3 bolts can be clipped to left of the flake (shared with the route Changos Cabrones). But this flake can also be led entirely on gear (finger-sized cams) or TR'd (beware of the huge swing potential into boulders if you fall in the first half). If you're near your limit, you'll probably want to clip the bolts and place one or two pieces for additional protection.