- Edit (TBD)
Description
Route begins just to the left of Grape Nuts in a water groove with a hands/fingers crack. Finishes at the summit, though it is possible to rappel Tecate Crunch (2x30m) after the 2nd pitch.
P1, 100', 5.7. Climb a hand/finger crack up a water groove. Follow the crack up the right side of the groove until forced back into the groove at a bush. Belay on ledge up and left. Poor rock in the belay, which takes hand and finger gear.
P2, 170', 5.7. Follow a easy groove up and left until a steep section pushes you right onto a slabby corner. A slight downward traverse leads to a low angle corner with a wide crack which is followed to the top. Belay in boulders to the left of the saddle. The optional rappel is found up and right of the saddle.
P3, 140' 5.5. Move the belay 50' left. Several options exist to leave the ledge here. Follow furrows, staying left of the main gulley, until reaching a bushy ledge, continue 30' or so up blocks to an awesome sandy alcove.
P4, 100' 5.6 or 5.8r/x. Move the belay 120' left on a class 2 ledge to the base of a beautiful chimney. Lewis' guide suggests climbing up via the Chimney. The face on the right side of the chimney provides the best stone and movement on the route, but no protection. Both options end in face climbing on the right side of the gully on surprisingly good rock.
3rd class ledges on the right side of the formation lead to the descent (and option to go to the summit).
Protection
Double rack to #2 C4, single blue TCU, #3 C4.
Routes in East Tower
- 1Deadline5.7Trad