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Description
This friction climb is a juxtaposition to the overhanging, imposing wall that perches above. Past the initial moves, the climb is well protected!
Start up the unprotected face to an overlap. Slide in a cam (#1 or #3 Camalot), then climb up the face above, then move up to the fixed anchors- a #.75 here helps protect the last moves. The anchor is located at the foot of the "Balcony", a spectacular wide ledge that offers an expansive vista of the Hoffman Notch Wilderness.
From here, you have the option to continue the adventure and go further back on the Balcony to a belay at the base of the overhanging wall. A second pitch (5.3) traverses left along the base of the overhanging wall above following a crack, and is reportedly rather good.
Location
Locate the clean face about 100’ left of Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops. Even more obvious is the tremendously overhanging wall above.
Protection
4 bolts, #1 or #3 Camalot, plus an optional #.75 Camalot if only going to the fixed anchor at 40’. Standard Rack if continuing further.