Unnamed (submitted as Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up)

Around April 25, 1977, I led the first pitch of this route, using aid on much of the first pitch. The start was an overhanging seam/crack, which led to good cracks in the vertical face. After about 95 feet, I reached a juniper and abseiled. Tim cleaned on jumars. We left the rope fixed, so we could finish the route on the following day. David Kozak's 1985

SOUTHWEST ROCK

calls this pitch "The Old, Bad and Ugly Nail-up." He says that there is a two-bolt belay. There were no bolts when we were there. He doesn't mention a second pitch.

The following day, we jumared the fixed rope. Tim led the second pitch, using aid in the rain. The second pitch went up a nice crack in a vertical, left-facing dihedral and could go free at 5.10 or 11. The lower pitch could go free, except for (perhaps) the start.

This is the rightmost long route on the main wall.

I used pitons on the first section, and nuts and pitons above. Cams hadn't been invented. The C3 is Kozak's rating for the aid. Pitons are no longer necessary or desirable for a climb like this.