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Peak Mountain 3

Evasion

FA unknown
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Description

Variety of different kinds of outdoor moves in different rock situations.

pitch 1: Up the gully to reach a big overhanging curved rock at its top. Instead of climbing up or around that rock, turn left and muscle up onto the flat top of the big detached rock.

pitch 2: Climb back down to the gully, then walk down left inside wide crevice between the big detached rock and the main cliff. Next continue horizontally where the crevice continues farther downward into a dark hole - (creatively using rock on both sides of the crevice). Then scramble up the right side of end of the crevice and up to top of main cliff.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2017. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Rocky gully along right side of main south face of this sector.

    • see on this Photo

Protection

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Crumbling Under Pressure sector.

Top-Rope anchor for first pitch might be large tree branch of large tree on top of main cliff (not on top of the detached rock). TR anchor for second pitch needs to be on the main cliff in a different place farther NW (Left) - (perhaps with belay from above instead of the usual way fronn below?)