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Peak Mountain 3

Zigzag

FA Brad Gilbert & Jeff Allred, 1978 (pitch 2) - Les Ellison & Larry Carrol, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1:

Starts on the left side of the face and wanders up moderate slabs broken up by 3 roofs. Climb to the right of the 1st one where a missing piton used to protect the thin slab moves. Head straight up and pull the chickenhead-covered second roof, then slab up to the third roof where you'll find a solid piton to protect the lieback moves. Belay above the roof to the left in the Wings dihedral where you'll find a slung horn. Don't pass opportunities for gear on this pitch as the placements are mostly thin and well spaced.

P2:

Start by traversing right along a flaring crack for about 30', then step across the slab (thin) to get into an arching double crack. Climb the stellar finger crack that eventually arches back left into the dihedral. Set up a belay in the squeeze below a detached flake.

P3:

is the business: climb a few feet up to a bush then traverse right on the steep blank slab following a thin undercling, past 3 sad looking pitons that can be backed up in places. Step across a blank section to reach a flaring lieback crack. Heady and less than ideally protected climbing along this feature will bring you back left top the top of the buttress. Walk down a few feet to a solid tree anchor or keep going up the ramp for more trees.

Zigzag

was cleaned in the spring of 2008 by Andrew Burr. It used to look like a jungle. Apart from a bit of exfoliation it is now really clean. Props for the hard work!

Location

Follow the updated approach to

Lizard Head Wall

. Once you reach the base of

Squeeze My Lemon

walk out west along the trail that skirts the base of the wall. About 100' on this trail will bring you to a dead-end at the base of broken slabs just west of a tree-choked gully.

Descent

: either find the new 2-bolt anchor on top of Assumption Of Risk (see descent info for

Another Day At The Office

) or scramble up and right towards a notch overlooking

Altered States Gully

. Downclimb 15' to the tree anchor at the base of The Slash. Bring a knife and replacement slings. Either way 2 rope raps.

Protection

Standard trad rack: nuts, cams through BD #3, optional #4 for belays on top of P2. Maybe doubles in small to finger sizes. Long runners to minimize rope drag, maybe double ropes. Possibly a screamer or two for the old pitons on P3.