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Peak Mountain 3

Get a Horse

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Description

Possibly the most underappreciated, if not downright overlooked, cracks in Wisconsin. I am astonished that this has not been developed or heavily climbed in the last 10 years. This overhanging crack climb contains some of the most prolonged, secure, well-protected trad climbing in the area, but be prepared to work for it. Start out with somewhat heady and insecure for the grade, face and arete moves on the same line as More Choss than Moss. Upon reaching the overhanging wall, traverse right and continue up the obvious crack in the corner using great hand jams and stemming feet. The crux for me was the awkward mantle about 3/4 of the way up the route. Continue up the rest of the crack system and build an anchor on large ledge (or be prepared for a long runout and serious rope drag)."Get a horse!", as shouted to us by one of the horseback riders upon seeing us hauling our gear up the trail, accurately describes the feeling after topping out this climb. This is fantastic crack climbing that will work you in a relatively short distance, with very few breakable holds for how untouched the rock has been in recent years.

Location

Far Climber's Right on Quall Wall. Shares same start as 'More Choss than Moss'.

Protection

Standard Rack. Small nut and cam placements low. Bigger Cams and Hexes in the crack.For toprope use LONG slings or static line from good tree at top. On lead use low toprope anchor, or deal with a lot of runout and rope drag after finishing the route. We did a 5.0ish second pitch to walk off the top.