Lemmings

The route can be approached by climbing the first pitch of

Calypso

,

Boulder Direct

,

Recon

, etc... anything that takes you to the big ledge/ramp that leads down and south from the anchors atop of P1 of

Calypso

.

Just below the big alcove of the

West Overhang

is another system that climbs up and to a second roof. The route follows a large crack through the second roof where there is a small amount of poor rock.

The best way to do this route is to start on

West Overhang

, come through that roof, then step to the right and finish through the second roof (Lemmings) instead of on the easy crack/corner of the

West Overhang

. Done this way, the route gets a single * and is slightly better protected.

To descend, traverse left from the top of the route to the fixed rap anchors above

Boulder Direct

.

The route can be protected on a standard rack plus a big piece (#4 Camalot) near the crux.

The protection takes some creativity and is only satisfactory, not great. This should not be lead by a borderline 5.8 leader.