Solarian

Solarian is identified by the striking, sunlit, dihedral system on the left side of the north face of Sheeprock. This route features face climbing, layback corners, a 100', diagonaling, finger crack traverse, and great exposure for only 3 pitches. This is one of few trad routes on Sheeprock.

Begin as for

Cloak of the Wolf

, on the Perch above the bivy spot on the left side of Land that Time Forgot.

P1: 5.10+, 150'

, shares the first pitch of the

Cloak

. 16 bolts, 3 bolt belay on a grassy belay ledge.

P2: 5.10, 105'

classic. Lieback up the arching, right-facing dihedral (5.9) to a steep, cruxy step left into the main dihedral, protected by a bolt. Jam through a weakness in a roof above a spooky, hollow flake to a 3-bolt, hanging belay. Be mindful of rope drag. (you cannot retreat after this point).

P3: 5.10+, 150'

excellent and memorable. Continue up the finger crack above the belay to join a dihedral and A-frame roof. Pull around the roof, 5.10+, (strangely reminiscent of

Fat City

crack in Lumpy) where a tight, finger crack splits to the right. This is the crux of the entire route. CAUTION: be sure to place pro for your follower, the roof edge is sharp! Dance the sustained rising finger crack traverse (5.9) for about 100' to a comfortable sunny belay ledge with two bolts/gear (and a great place to take a pic of your follower!). This pitch gobbles up nuts and small cams.

P4:

traverse the ledge right for about 20' to rap anchors where you escape by rapping 70' to the top of

Ankar Gate

, or rap/traverse to the saddle and have a picnic. If you still want to summit, climb Velcro Wall via

Acid Crack

, 5.5, (classic!) and a hundred feet of 3rd Class slabs to the top.

There are a few options to get down. From the summit, rap

Cloak of the Wolf

. From the saddle, rap

Jacobs Ladder

or

Ankar Gate

. Bring 2 x 60m ropes for raps.

This is on the left side. See the topo.

Stoppers, TCUs, doubles of #0.5, #0.75, and #1 Camalots. EDIT: one #2 and one #3 are optional. Bring 2 x 60m ropes.