Chanchors

First Pitch (70 ft). Start on an easy ramp to a 30 ft flake. Bring a small cam or two for the start, and slings for the trees growing by the crack. After hitting the top of the crack, traverse left to start grabbing chicken heads. Grab anywhere, they are all over the place! Reach a ledge with lighter colored rock and then traverse slightly left again and take a step or two up to find a short dihedral in which to build a belay. Second pitch (50 ft). Go up through the dihedral and continue slight right where protection can be found. An easy mantle gains the top! Descent: Curse and bleed as you tear through holly and thorn bushes to head climber's left about 30 ft to a tree slung with webbing and a rap ring by the cliff edge. First tree to the left of a big dead spar at the edge of the cliff. A 70m rope will JUST BARELY reach the bottom. Otherwise, rap down into a tree by the cliff's edge, pull the rope, and then rappel from a crotch in the tree.

First pitch originally anchored by slinging 3 large chicken heads just before large ledge.

From Tennessee Triathalon, head left and pass an obvious prow with wide crack/chimney behind it. Round the corner and go past another straight section of cliff before rounding one more bend. Head to the middle of the next section of wall to find a wall littered with chicken heads reached by a ramp and vegetated flake.

Small rack and slings for bottom pitch. Normal rack with a 5 and a 6 help protect the top pitch.