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Peak Mountain 3

Owl Roof

FA Reid Dowdle, 1980-something
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Description

A good climb with a good crux, but all of the good climbing is at the good crux. The rest of the route is lacking. Start from the ground, just a few feet left of a bush maybe 3 meters up. Climb past the bush and into a right-leaning crack. The rock is lichen-covered, but mostly solid and the grade is moderate. As you reach solid protection, place it on a long runner, as you are still moving up and right, but the route is about to traverse left under the roof. Continue on solid jams until the crack ends, and go out left a few meters to an obvious jam-crack and start into the roof on some under-clings and jams- get horizontal and pull into the roof and over it on some technical jams and an edge or two. Footwork is still key, although there is not apparently much for feet. (Hint: This is a crack climb, after all.)

After the roof you will arrive on a ledge. While it is possible to belay here, I found it more inviting to traverse left (run it out of suffer the drag) into a cleft, then go up a few ledges on the right side of the cleft and to the cliff-top to belay off of gear.

To descend, scramble down to the South and find some anchors. Rap to the West above Fledgeling and Fully Fledged.

Location

This route is on the North end of the West Face of the Owl Rock. It is distinguished by being the handcrack though the body-length roof, to it's right side.

Protection

Take a set of cams from small to 3"