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MapDescription
An area classic! Cleavage offers bouldery opening moves on steep terrain with a solid no hands rest before the crux section. Good clips throughout the entire climb, with a committing move between B4 to B5. Clip B5 with a good right hand hold. Better for the belayer to pay out a little extra slack here, so as not to whip the leader's torso into the bulge. It eases up a bit near the top, but it's not really over until the chains!
Location
Climb is left of the Butt Crack, starting in a low horizontal crack (the butt cleavage) up a vertical crack into a roof corner and then out right through a large hueco which looks like an old bee hive. See topo.
Protection
6 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor with chains
Routes in The Butt
- 3Cleavage5.12-Sport · Tr