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Peak Mountain 3

Cleavage

FA Scott Melcer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An area classic!  Cleavage offers bouldery opening moves on steep terrain with a solid no hands rest before the crux section.  Good clips throughout the entire climb, with a committing move between B4 to B5.  Clip B5 with a good right hand hold.  Better for the belayer to pay out a little extra slack here, so as not to whip the leader's torso into the bulge. It eases up a bit near the top, but it's not really over until the chains!

Location

Climb is left of the Butt Crack, starting in a low horizontal crack (the butt cleavage) up a vertical crack into a roof corner and then out right through a large hueco which looks like an old bee hive.  See topo.

Protection

6 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor with chains