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Peak Mountain 3

The Hanging Teeth

FA Gregg Cassabarth & Rusty Garing, 1971
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is just left of center of the P-wall face. It is defined by a distinctively jagged undercling area where the rock bulges out, about one third of the way to the top. Above this formation there is a flake with a distinct right facing dihedral(corner). The route follows the corner and good pro is found there. There are optional starts but as good as any is straight down from where the undercling originates on its left side(this is the same start as for "Root Canal"). Aim for the left side of the undercling, passing one bolt and some possible tricam placements. This area is not difficult but has sketchy pro. At the undercling pro is great for protecting the crux. From the left edge do an undercling traverse right 5-6 ft(wild and showy). Look for spot where some jugs are almost within reach, you should still be to the left of the flake above. After pulling up and sl. left over the bulge you are ready to make a balancy move to the right, around the corner into the dihedral. From the top of the dihedral link up with the "cave to P" route or follow bolts straight up which are a part of "Root Canal". In either case you skirt a large left facing flake at the top. Bolt anchors can be found at the top.

Protection

There are bolts for start and finish of this climb. Central area requires 1.0 tricam (for shallow crack) and several cams 1-2.5 inches.

[ed. note: 1/04 - 3, ¼” bolts w/Leeper Hangers removed and replaced w/1, ½” bolt at bolt #1 and 2, 3/8” bolts at bolts #2 and #3.]