- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start off the ledge and in its middle. Here a shallow corner system leads to a shallow overlap - the climbing is actually left of both. After crossing the overlap on its left, pull back right with a series of moves to gain the center of the formation with cracks on the left and on the right. Little Secrets is cruxy right off the bat, but it settles down to exquisite 5.11 edge climbing for much of its distance, actually until just approaching the anchors. Things get real thin and crisp on the over-hanging section 15 feet below the anchor. The gear is largely well-placed, nonetheless, one still has to suck it up getting to the anchor and the last 15 feet are tweaky, fingery, and a bit spooky. NB: the upper crux has a high clip making the move almost from a TR stance.
This is easily worth three stars for the excellent stone, very high continuity, and the cool position. It has thin, fingery climbing most of the way. The FFA goes to Tod Anderson.
Protection
Ten draws and a 60 m rope.
Routes in The Red Wall
- 12Little Secrets5.11dSport