- Edit (TBD)
Description
Steep and thin slab moves start right off the ground, and stay sustained past the first 3 bolts. Climb more easily over a brushy crack, and climb easier slab ( blue tcu here) angling right to the base of a narrow slab (Var 1). A critical blue tcu/red C3 protects the move onto the upper slab. Really good slab and arete climbing (10-) leads to a two bolt anchor. The last bolt on the upper slab is lacking a hanger for now, bring a wired nut. Shockingly good climbing compared to the appearance.
V1: The upper section was originally climbed by going 5 feet further right, and climbing flakes (trad gear), then angling back left to a slab finish (5.8 or so).
Location
30' left of Hangover Corner, and just left of a brushy gully/depression. Left of the depression is a clean slab that is steepest at the bottom. There are two bolt lines on the slab-this is the right hand route.
Protection
8 bolts (bring a wired nut for last on, missing hanger). Two blue TCU's.
Routes in Midway Cliff
- 280 grit5.10Trad