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Peak Mountain 3

California Five-Eleven A

FA Dimitri Barton and David Caunt, 1991
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UPDATED 

Description

At the left end of California Ridge lies what is called California Five-Eleven A. Feels harder than the b/c rating that it's given in the guidebook...

Two bolts under the roof and some burly moves lead to 15' of face climbing. 3 bolt anchor.

Supposedly can be top-roped in a variation to the left though due to the potential swing it is not the best.

Location

Located at the left end of California Ridge in the middle of a roof maybe 8' off the deck and 3' deep or so. Two bolts nearly horizontal with each other mark the start a few feet left of the inside corner (Access Denied)

Protection

5 draws. More arms than I've got. Quite difficult to clip the second clip. Bring something to extend the clip just above the lip otherwise the gate will rub right on it.

Also there are no rap rings at the top of this climb but you can walk around the top to clean the anchor. Lastly you might want to tie yourself to something as the belayer as to not get sucked off the cliff.