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Peak Mountain 3

Kanarado Korner

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Description

This is an amazing, 2 pitch mixed line that begins with a steep, bolt protected face, into a ramp that leads to a 2nd steep bolted face that trends into an awesome, right-facing corner/crack, protected with excellent natural gear. The direct route begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks on a 3-bolt line. It is just right of the direct start for Jack Straw. The route has great moves on a super-fun line, one of the best in the 10 Mile. P1: Climb the steep, awkward face passing 3 bolts 95.10) to a slab above and trend up and right on unprotected 5.5 slab to a 2-bolt anchor. P2: Climb the steep, thin bolted face (5.10) to the awesome right-facing corner to a 2-bolt anchor.

The climb begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks and just right of Jack Straw. To access the 2nd pitch, you could also climb either

Scotch on the Rocks

or the first pitch of

Jack Straw

and belay in a large crack/ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. If accessing via

Scotch

, climb the 5.7 slab to the anchors and continue climbing, trending up and left, passing a small face/overhang to the belay stance. If accessing via

Jack Straw

, climb the 5.10 past 3 bolts to the slab above. Pass the 2-bolt anchor and trend up and right (50'), passing the dead tree, on unprotected slab (5.5) to the belay stance.

Location

A single 70m rope rap from the anchors will put you back on the belay ledge. A second rap will get you back to the deck. Be careful with both raps, it is possible to rap off the ends of your rope! You can use a 60m, rapping from the corner anchors to the anchors above

Free Fall

to the anchors on

Scotch on the Rocks

to the deck.

Per

rob bauer

: a 70 meter rope will BARELY get you back to the start of the pitch. Plan on 3 raps.

Protection

P1: 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2: 2 bolts, Camalots #0.3 to 3 (possibly a double set of #1-3, depending on your comfort), and a 2-bolt anchor near the end of the corner.