- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start below a slightly overhung section of rock and work your way up and thru the easiest terrain finding edges and some larger holds until you reach the corner above. Continue up and rightward as the route zig-zags its way up the wall following a discontinuous crack system.
Look carefully for offset nuts and small to medium cam placements eventually reaching a stance below where the rock steepens again. Here find a good cam placement in a horizontal slot (aka purple 0.5 BDC4). Launch into the pitch's crux by moving up, passing a bolt and then exiting left around a buttress. Once you turn the corner, look for good features and a few more gear placements as you take the slab up to a bolted anchor.
Due to the nature of the rock on this pitch some of the gear placements are not obvious but they're definitely available to the skilled trad climber. Appreciate the fact that the FFA of this pitch was done without the bolt!
Location
About 10' left of where The Steamboat Captain's Dream begins.
Protection
Bring a rack and thank Andrew for letting that bolt keep your ass off the deck!
Routes in Northwest Face
- 3Smoke Signals5.10bTrad