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Peak Mountain 3

The Magnificent 7

FA Chum Nov 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Magnificent 7 climbs the prominent ships prow arete directly above Witches Broom. It is arguably the most classic arete climb at the Obed, and perhaps in all of Tennessee in my biased opinion. The stone is legit flawless and the position is super out there. You'll definitely be checking your knot up there.

The crux is at the very top and employs a divine sequence of moves that makes you wonder if it was intelligently designed. It is not a quick tick and requires some advanced sport climbing rope techniques. However, It is worth the effort.

The full pitch requires you to climb techy thin face, burly roof and crack moves, and finish with delicate and balancey arete climbing. It'll test you.

Location

Climb witches broom but at the 2nd to last bolt step left into a dihedral and climb easier ground to the base of the roof crack. Climb the roof crack to a two bolt belay. The start of the crack is often wet but the worst of the wet holds can be avoided if you're careful.

You basically have 3 options to prevent rope drag. All 3 methods require more than your average sport climbing effort: 1. Use super long draws on the last few bolts of WB and in the roof. 2.Clip in to the 2 bolt anchor above roof crack and pull the rope through the draws of WB. Use the anchor bolts on the 2nd pitch. (clip anchor long. use a locker or two opposite/opposed biners) Make sure YOU"RE ON BELAY (!!) Continue up the arete rope drag free. (recommended) 3. Use double ropes.

 A 70 meter rope is necessary to get down from the upper anchor. But if you want to clean your gear off WB I recommend re-threading the rope thru the anchor at the base of the arete and cleaning in 2 pitches. Again,  not convenient but worth it. You could TR the full line to clean too.

Protection

Bolts. 70m rope recommended.


Routes in North Clear Creek


  1. 15
    The Magnificent 7
    5.12a
    Sport