Broken Bit

Fun climbing up strange mantles to a tiny roof, then well-protected face past 4 bolts - but then (after the drill bit broke...) you get big runouts on knobby face past a flake to the anchor for Gold Member. This route originally had a juvenile, racist name from the Austin Powers movies that I regret using, and for that I sincerely apologize.

There is a second pitch which continues left up the Goldmember dike to the third pitch anchor on Shagadelic, but it has no pro at all (not even a knob tie-off) and the dike is slippery.

On the huge ramp between Shagadelic and Goldmember, there is a roof about 40 feet above. This route starts up under the middle of the roof, then heads left to the left edge of the roof where there is a piton. I do not know if the piton is in good shape or not, and if there is any backup pro (probably not or I wouldn't have left it). Then up the face past 4 bolts, up right then back left to a flake (1" cam, medium nut), and up to the Goldmember belay alcove.

5 bolts, piton, 1" cam (.4 or .5 Camalot size, red Alien, etc), medium nuts, slings for knobs.