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Peak Mountain 3

Talus Knirschen

FA Rich Magner, Roy Suggett & Alexis Mollard
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Description

Very small edges up high on the face make the moves 11b-ish but keeping the left hand on the arete rather than committing to the face will be more like 11a. Very demanding strength to weight ratio kind of thing on the face where a big reach to a very small edge is the crux move.

Location

This is the direct start to Wrath of the Talus Monster. Come down the chute using the fixed line and head NW or right. Climb the face and do not turn the arete or you would be doing the a fore mentioned WOTTM.

Protection

Six QDs and a couple of runners, though a few medium sized cams might help too and that will get you to chains and a quick link.