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Peak Mountain 3

Seeking Joy

FA Ryan Murphy, Randy Vannurden, Doug Plourde
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A new free line on West Bell Tower! Varied, exposed, and sustained 5.11 climbing ascending up the middle of the formation. Seeking Joy and Seeking Pain. This route is dedicated to our beloved friends lost in the mountains.

p1:

(5.11-) Start up the incredible P1 of "

The Nerve

". A classic 100ft stemming dihedral up to a huge block ledge. Small gear, #2 and fixed pins/bolts.

p2:

(5.11+) Crux Pitch? Start directly above the anchor following shallow changing corners to a small ledge. Continue up the beautiful golden face to a hanging anchor. Techy, balancy, and sustained. (8 b's)

p3:

(5.11) "The Crown Roof" This pitch follows Les Ellisons and Teri's original aid line which is very exposed. The mental crux. The rock quality starts to deteriorate but the features make up for it.. Follow the corner through exfoliating rock utilizing pin scars (key .4/.5 offset placement or yellow totem), clip a bolt and pull onto the roof. Underclinging the roof traverse has to be one of the coolest positions in the Wasatch. Pull above the roof and follow some chicken heads to an anchor and nice ledge out right. (#2, .4/.5 offset, .4, .3, and many alpine draws (EXTEND))

p4

: (5.11) Chicken Heads!!! As with most routes in bells the rock turns into kitty litter towards the top. Luckily this pitch goes almost solely on chicken heads. It is incredible fun and mainly 5.10 mantles with a well protected 11 crux. Ends on nice ledge. (8 or so bolts)

P4 top out/Descent:

If topping out continue up the gulley of p4 another 30 plus feet to some tree or gear anchors and then walk off route via west bell tower descent or walk down and rap off the top of "

The Nerve

".

Recommended Descent:

Rap the route skipping the second anchor. My 70 meter was just able to reach from p3 to p1 (over the roof) but my buddies came just short. Id recommend bringing some extra cord for a pull line, double ropes, or 80m.

Location

Cross the waterfall and head up towards the open area/camp areas. Continue uphill until you get to a rock band and traverse at the base. Continue towards the base of "The Nerve"

Protection

single rack .2-2, (offset .4/.5 super or yellow totem key for p3), many alpine draws, quickdraws