The Broken Drum

This is a wild ride! Don't even bother if you don't feel very, very comfortable on 5.9+ runout climbing. This pitch is about 150 feet, and the protection between the 2 bolts at the bottom and the 2 pins at the top is marginal at best. The good news is the climbing between these points is not hard at all.

The ultimate crux of the route is in balancing up a right-trending, right-facing, layback crack. Excellent movement well-protected by 2 pins leads you to a good cam placement and the chains.

With a 70m rope, I could easily rap to the top of the pillar which (especially after leading this route) is an easy downclimb. A 60m may also get you there, but don't count on it.

Start just left of a small pillar up an easy slab for about 20 feet where you will find two bolts on the wall (and a sling hanging off the 1st bolt - as of this summer). This route is to the right of Sugar Magnolia and left of

Stud Puppet

.

Great in places, and non-existent in others. This is definitely PG-13 and R if you aren't creative with your pro. There are no large placements to speak of, so leave your big stuff at the base. The largest of my few pieces was a #3 orange TCU (finger sized cam). Bring up finger sized cams up to a 0.75 C4 maybe, and a set of nuts. There are also 2 bolts low on the route that protect the low crux, and 2 pins high to protect the upper crux (the lower of these can be backed up by a small cam).

The more small stuff you can bring, the better.

Be prepared to sweat! :)