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MapDescription
Climb the arete on the east side of the spire. Generally, the rock is of beautiful quality with almost nothing likely to break except for a couple dubious flakes. One was removed and the other has become known as the Death Flake. Watch out for it on the left hand side of the route about a third of the way up! It is possible to climb around it on the right then step back left to good holds just above the Death Flake as was done on the first ascent.
Protection
3 fixed pitons, at least one large cam (4 or 5) to protect the wide crack at the bottom, and a few small cams and nuts. Rappel off summit from a new two bolt anchor. One rope down south face.
Routes in Mern
- 1Death Flake Arete5.8+Trad