Chimney

This route provides chimney practice. There are also good face holds inside the chimney, or you can ignore them and go full-on chimneying. Unfortunately, it's really short. This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #1. It lies left of route #1 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although he has a photo covering this area on page 186).

This is the farthest left (west) route described on the south wall of the Big E. It occupies the left side of a big east-facing corner, so it appears to get early AM sun and early PM shade. Approach the base of chimney two ways: From the right, go up the 4th class blocks, or from the left, start up a blocky 5.8-ish crack system to make the actual climbing last longer.

Single trad rack of nuts and cams to maybe 3" will get you up. No need for big stuff, there's plenty of placements on the inner faces of the chimney itself. A gear anchor can be built at the top.