We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Minotaur

FA JS, Carson Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 2010. Right: Brent Manning, JS, Sept. 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This good (but short) trad pitch can serve as an alternative first pitch to

Starstruck

, or, better yet, a quick warm-up before jumping on

Starstruck

. There are fixed anchors on top that make for a convenient lower back to the base. Begin in a short right-facing dihedral left of

Starstruck

. Climb 25 or so feet up and right to a ledge. Above is a short roof presenting two options, a crack skirting the roof on its left or a crack in a left-facing dihedral that passes the roof to the right.

Minotaur

(5.7+) takes the left crack, past the roof, to a bigger set of roofs. At the roofs, traverse left, just over the lip of the lowest roof, for 15 feet or so until possible to climb straight up steep but juggy face to the anchors. Great position, good rock, and ample protection opportunities.

A variation,

Minotaur Right

(5.8), takes the dihedral that passes the roof to the right. Once over the roof, step left to a crack (the crack to the right is

Starstruck

) leading up and over another roof to the anchors. The position on

Minotaur Right

is not as good as

Minotaur

, and it could use a bit of scrubbing, so I'’d stick with the latter unless you'’re out to bag all the moderates on Strone.

There are some small oak shoots in the first 20 or so feet of the climb that might need cutting back every once in a while. Consider bringing some small clippers; the next party will be thankful.

Location

Starts 15 left of the first pitch of

Starstruck

. See

Starstruck

for the approach and the photodiagram on the main page for Strone Crag. The anchors are rigged for lowering or a rappel.

Protection

Set of wired stoppers (incude brass), set of cams to 2 inches. Two bolts for the belay.