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MapDan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD)
Description
DDD follows insipient cracks and small edges up the face to the left of Damnation Crack. There is pro but it can be thin and difficult to fish in while on the tiny edges. This route should only be led by those confident at the grade.
The route, originally put with 3 bolts one of which was also used as a belay. The original and additional bolts have appeared and disappeared several times over the years and the route remains a contentious poster child of bolting wars.
Most climbers now climb the route as a TR accessible from any of the routes that top out on the Jello Tower.
Location
The route goes up the vertical wall to the left of Damnation crack and the Jello Tower.
Protection
Pro to #1 camalot with many micro nuts
Routes in Upper Castle
- 8Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD)5.11b/cTrad