Diagonal

obvious diagonal dike that begins on Standard Route too tight awkward chimney variation to tree belay on Standard route. Ascend easy run out dike to belay 40 ft to belay. Finish dike crack to belay right below the extremely inclined diagonal crux crack at two bolts. Climb crux with plausible gear to wide crack to the top. This climb thwarted local climbers for years. The crux unnervingly technical plausible situation protection below moves. This climb easy to go mental by the exposure. its dramatic but too easy besides the crux. Much of the climb is high up on the Mordor Wall section of cliff. Poison Ivy grows on route near to the top easily avoided.

NOTE: The first two pitches are often done as a 5.6 followed by a double rope rap down the Mordor Wall. The following is a more recent description that Cris Magness recently posted on a Forum whose topic was exactly that, i.e. doing only the first 2 pitches:

   Not 5.4!  5.6, good, worthwhile, and runout. I updated the anchor at the block on top of pitch one several years back, the anchor below the chimney is modern as well.  You'll clip an old (suspect) mid-point anchor halfway through the 5.6 pitch.  Gear is sporadic, both leader and follower should be competent at the grade as the climb traverses quite a bit.

1. Start as per Toe Crack or Standard Direct.  Move through the belay for Toe Crack and up to a block and bolted anchor on the right.  5.5 or 5.9.

2. Follow the obvious dike past a midpoint anchor on the left until the angle steepens.  160'.  5.6.  Tricams may help.

Have two ropes for the rappel, it's a free-hanging adventure down the Mordor Wall

RHall, NH Admin. 

Begin with Standard chimney variation to the tree belay. Walk down from the top.

Bolts and trad gear.