Right of the Groove

Want all the beauty of Bald Rock Dome with less of the terror? This route features protection at least every thirty feet. Excellent friction slab and special railroad dikes.

As you might imagine, this route is located to the right of the groove. Follow the apron of the dome around the "bottom" of the descent gulley. Look for a ~6 foot Manzanita 50 feet up in the middle of the slab, just above a 20 foot sloped grassy ledge. We walked up the right-trending ramp/seam to the ledge and belayed from there.

P1: stiff slab past 3-4 bolts (just above and to the left of the Manzanita), leading to a corner for pro. When it peters out, head straight up past 1-2 bolts to a bolted anchor with rap rings. 5.9+ 40m

P2: beautiful slab. First bolt is a ways out, about 20+ feet left and a bit up. Follow the bolt line to a bolted anchor with rap rings. 5.9 45m

P3: more bolted friction to an anchor with one bolt+ring next to a corner/crack that takes medium gear. 5.9 40m

P4: follow the corner up and slightly left. All gear to a bolted anchor with rap rings. 5.6 35m

P5: glorious. Slab up and left until you hit the parallel dikes. They will take you up to a bolted belay with rap rings as the angle levels off. 5.9+ 40m

P6: Thoughtful slab hike. Only "hard" moves are right off the belay. Purportedly there is a bolt somewhere up there, but there are also horizontal seams that will accept protection occasionally. Follow the path of least resistance towards a bolted belay with rap rings in a little scooped ledge. 5.4 35m

Above that: you are still a little ways from comfortable ground. We roped up and added a pitch, belaying off a tree/boulder. We bushwhacked towards the right of the summit wall, working our way back to the left. Kinda nasty. I've heard one can traverse left below the headwall to regain the approach trail.

DESCENT: Commitment is reasonably high for this route. If your party decides to bail, you can get down with two ropes (leaving gear at the third anchor, which is just one bolt+ring), but you will still have to navigate your way back up the steep and loose approach gulley. This route can also be used as a rap route for the dome in general, provided you have two ropes, are willing to leave gear at the third anchor, and can safely find the top anchors (might be best to take the gulley your first time).

Follow the descent gulley. Route goes, you guessed it, about 30-40 feet to the right of the gentle groove in the rounded dome. Look for the slopey ledge, manzanita, and corner (exfoliation joint).

10 draws and a single rack + nuts will do (but tricams were also nice to have)