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Peak Mountain 3

Southwest Prow

FA Charles Vernon; Kurt Johnson, 5/22/05
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a fun route up the SW arete of the Colossus. In contrast to Colossus Crack, it doesn't look like much from the ground, but has some fun crack and arete moves. Approach as for Colossus Crack, and hike to the left-hand side of the of the cliff (around the corner left from the steep, green wall with Colossus Crack). "SW Prow" starts up a slab and picks up a 5.8 seam just right of the prow (00 tcu placment). Continue to a ramp below a steep arete, and climb a splitter finger crack (crux) about 5' right of the arete (the ramp continues to the right as a sort of corner or groove). Higher, the crack ends, so step left and use both sides of the arete for a few fun, exciting moves to reach a ledge where one can belay, or possibly stretch the rope to the top.

Note: from the ground, several seams are visible to the right of the arete, and for the most part, they are indeed unprotectable seams, but when you reach the ramp, it becomes apparent that the particular crack described above takes perfect nut placements and thin finger jams.

Protection

standard rack; a 00 tcu is helpful and nothing larger than a #2 friend is required