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Peak Mountain 3

Gun Club

FA Brooke Sandahl, April 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This long face climb climbs a super prominent buttress overlooking the New River Gorge, with the classic Supercrack (5.9) to its right and the new school trad headpoint Gun Control (13c) to the left. The only thing that mars Gun Club is that many folks consider its aggrevating crux– with delicate feet and sequential holds– to be the least pleasant part of the climb. It is also possible (if you wish to be subjected to justifiable ridicule) to take the "Gun Show Loophole" and traverse over to Supercrack, avoiding the entire crux. Above the crux is glorious 11+ climbing that will keep you pumped and thinking.

On a historical side note, Dan Osman soloed this ultra-insecure route in 1991. The story goes that Dan worked the crux on a short leash, never really dialing in the sequence perfectly. The next day, with friends and cameras in tow, he set out to solo the climb. Maybe the sun drenched wall, maybe his nerves, or perhaps the reality and severity of such a serious solo got the best of him, and he began to verbally doubt himself, telling his buddies that he wasn't sure he wanted to go through with it while hanging out at the sun-drenched stance just below the crux. After being encouraged not to go for it and to climb back down, the sun went behind a cloud, Danno fired the crux, and took the free solo to the top.

Location

Thunder Buttress, just left of Super Crack.

Protection

10 bolts. Good options for cams to keep the runouts a bit more tame. Bolted anchor.