- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start in the crack just left of the 5.9 crack, then move left up through an awesome hand crack in a bulge to a great stance. Place a BD number 3 or 4 in the crack in the bulge. Take a deep breath, then make the last few easy moves to the chains. Its a bit run-out for that last little section.
In the Northwest Oregon book, it splits what I described into two distinct routes; one that follows the arete on the left and one that stays in the crack. To be honest, neither the arete nor the upper part of the crack looked all that appealing. So, I think combing the two (bottom of the crack, top of the arete) is the way to go.
Location
The crack left of the 5.9 crack and right of the arete.
Protection
Standard rack, definitely bring a 3" piece if you're climbing through the bulge at the crack