- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start on rock to approach to Chock Stones up left. Climb awkwardly on dirt and rock left and up to stones (crux) to move up like the stones are a chimney. Go up the indented curvature of the cliff now that is sort of like a dike or gully but is neither because it is chocks stones and grasses then chock stones and forest and the chock stones to bulwark right. The mystery, was what's above this? It is being an impasse. The bulwark can be avoided left before approaching it. The bulwark is covered in wet green moss except the right side is clear. The height of the bulwark is 5 ft on the right side and 7-10 ft on the left. To get over this thing, I chose not doing the right side and climbed two oak trees on the left side at the same time strenuously. Got high enough up the trees to stem over to get left foot high up up and reach for a tree. Made it onto the short dirt slope to enter the bowl of car size boulders or really big chock stones. There are, about 30-40 feet of them with many choices to proceed. The volcano like rim of it can be ascended. I went up to the direct finish that was too wet. Its very geometric and has sharp jagged edges. All of the top is a steeply overhanging short ceiling with extreme blind sided problems to solve to get over it. Most of the rock here is jagged also, other than the rim. I checked things out before I left. All slabs below lead to the rim bulwark and its defenses are weakened on the east side by cracks and a giant long fissure. Two, maybe three slab approaches to the east side of the bulwark rim. Awesome geology. I escaped right and up below the ceiling. 300 ft higher is the pyramid shaped, east summit.
Location
300 ft east or right of the base of the height of land where the boulder field left goes to most of the climbs. Starts on rock left of the large slab right. Across and up from here left is the start of 'Ora the Explorer'.
Protection
very light rack, rock and tree slings.
Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
- 13The Stones5.5Alpine · Trad