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Peak Mountain 3

Save the Monkey

FA Mike Schneiter
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This link provides a more logical and smooth way to climb the classic

Shock the Monkey

corner without climbing

Trash Man

(out left) and trying to manage the rope from there or set up an intermediate belay on the ledge. There is an old 1/4" bolt and other evidence that Doug Ranck and others explored this possibility but evidently didn't finish it.

Climb the first three bolts of

Toxic Substance

. At the fourth bolt, reach left to a new bolt connecting the blank face between

Toxic Substance

and the ledge system below

Shock the Monkey's

classic corner. You may want to clip the fourth bolt while making this reach and then back clean the fourth bolt. Slings or long draws may also be helpful in this section.

Make this long move left and on to the first of two ledge systems below

Shock the Monkey's

corner. A new bolt up and right of the old two bolt anchor below the corner helps the rope run more freely. Once in the corner of

Shock the Monkey

, climb the steep, right-angling corner.

Location

Start as for

Toxic Substance

on the far left of the main sector of the Dump Wall. This is a link-up of the bottom of

Toxic Substance

and into

Shock the Monkey

.

Protection

12-13 bolts.