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Peak Mountain 3

North Face

FA 4 March 1956, H. Davis and R. Douglass
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Approach by rapping down from the summit of Low Horn 1 to the saddle between #1 and 2. Scramble up a large ledge to one of two crack systems. The left crack is wider, and this is the one we climbed. Climb one pitch to the summit. An awkward off width move is the crux.

Descent: Either rap back down to the North (the way you came) or scramble down to the south and one very short rap will land you on the saddle between #'s 2 and 3. Two Notes: 1) as you scramble down to the north, it almost looks like you can scramble to the saddle, but caution a steep gash prevents a walk down. 2) Avoid rapping to the south unless you plan to climb #3 as the gully to the west from this saddle is loose steep, and cliffs out.

Location

Scramble up a diagonal ledge from the small saddle between Low Horn #1 and Low Horn #2. (Low Horn #1 is the northernmost of the Low Horns, and is just east of the summit of Gertch).

Protection

Light alpine rack.


Routes in Low Horn 2


  1. 1
    North Face
    5.6
    Trad