Bunny Roof

This is a new and improved (summer 2018) version of a 12-year-old route that was thoroughly neglected in its original form. It was established with just two bolts. It is now a proper sport route (with 6 bolts) and is currently the hardest pitch on the crag. It is marred only by a bit of poor rock in the middle of the pitch but makes up for it with the exceptional stone and movement through the 8 foot roof and hanging headwall above.

Start just left of

Pay At The Pump

in a short, left-facing corner (

Watership Down

shares this start and the first bolt).

Climb up into the easy corner, and move out right onto the face to the first bolt. A #3 Camalot can be placed in the corner, but the climbing is straightforward and not difficult. Begin a leftward traverse towards the obvious roof, and tackle the burly terrain through the roof and headwall up to a two-bolt, lower-off anchor.

This pitch starts just left of

Pay At The Pump

, in the obvious, short, left-facing corner, and climbs diagonally left up to, and out, the big roof near the top of the cliff.

The obvious crack system that leads directly up to the roof is regrettably chossy. I don't recommend starting there.

6 bolts (optional #3 Camalot at the start).