We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Lizard Action

FA Robert Warren, Steve Wood, and Jeff Web, Spring 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1:

We climbed up the first pitch of Crow's Beak. Starting on the northwest side of the tower locate a large chimney, climb cracks inside the chimney and loose rock to the ledge where the black line starts in the photograph.

-There are other variations to this first pitch, you can climb up the north face to the ledge, or climb just north of the northern prow to the ledge. Whatever looks good to you just get to were the black line starts. 5.10, 120'.

Pitch 2:

Follow cracks up and left to loose rock and a small roof. By pass roof and follow the crack to a small ledge (place the #4 by your feet while standing on ledge). Relax. From here move left to a drilled pin, move up and left to the arete and another drilled pin and an alcove/roof. Place as much shit gear as possible (I had 5 equalized pieces and that wouldn't have held a fall). Relax. Make the final easy moves to the anchor. (these moves are easier then they appear). Another anchor is on the notch side of the tower. 5.10+, 130'.

Descent: Rappel to the Notch and then to the ground.

Location

Start on the North side or on the Northwest side.

Protection

Standard Rack, 1 old #4 camalot for pitch 2.


Routes in Luminous Being


  1. 1
    Lizard Action
    5.10+
    Trad