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Peak Mountain 3

Irish Spring

FA Skip Guerin, 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start down and right of the Huge Boulder against the N/NW face of the Fiddlehead. Ascend up to & past the first bolt of

Lucky Charms

, clipping it for protection on the way to the arete to the right (West).

Access the arete and plunk in gear- climbing upward to the crux shortly after a middle-sized cam (1-1.5"?) and then climb the arete to a good ledge. Move left & rap off, or continue up on the second pitch of

Leprechaun Promenade

(10c) to the summit and a 100+ foot rap. Take a 70m rope or do it in 2 raps.

Location

This climb ascends the right hand edge of the North Face of the Fiddlehead after accessing it from the left past a single bolt as for

Lucky Charms

.

Protection

One bolt on

Lucky Charms

, then gear to 2" in occasional placements up the arete. Flexible SLCDs are a good idea for the horizontals.