- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start down and right of the Huge Boulder against the N/NW face of the Fiddlehead. Ascend up to & past the first bolt of
Lucky Charms
, clipping it for protection on the way to the arete to the right (West).
Access the arete and plunk in gear- climbing upward to the crux shortly after a middle-sized cam (1-1.5"?) and then climb the arete to a good ledge. Move left & rap off, or continue up on the second pitch of
Leprechaun Promenade
(10c) to the summit and a 100+ foot rap. Take a 70m rope or do it in 2 raps.
Location
This climb ascends the right hand edge of the North Face of the Fiddlehead after accessing it from the left past a single bolt as for
Lucky Charms
.
Protection
One bolt on
Lucky Charms
, then gear to 2" in occasional placements up the arete. Flexible SLCDs are a good idea for the horizontals.
Routes in Fiddlehead
- 5Irish Spring5.9+Sport · Trad