- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an awesome moderate. This classic route is a bit obscure but well worth the time off the beaten track. Get permission/sign in at the Cheley Camp office. 20-25 minute approach. Pleasant walk. Can be done in 2 60m pitches or traditionally 4 pitches.
P1 can start left of a groove/wide crack. Traverse right into a crack. Go up past a natural thread. You can reach a ledge at about 120'. Continue up through a bulge that is easier than it looks. Save the #4 Camalot for just below this bulge. Then, left to the top of a pillar at 190'.
P2. From here, follow the path of least resistance that meanders up and right direction through big holds. Crux move is through a little bulge. A perfect #11 BD wire protects the crux move. The moves ease off as you finish this 200' pitch. The "5.7" finish to the left is less obvious.
Exit. Cross the gap between this pillar and the main cliff to walk off right. 2 hour route. Way fun.
Protection
Light rack to #4 Camalot works.