We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

New Diversions

FA Sylvester, Wreford-Brown, & Coe - 1971
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.

P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.

P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a two bolt anchor. 5.9.

Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.

Protection

Single set of cams through a 4 inch piece. A shoulder-length sling.