Falcon Corner Variation

ANCHOR BOLTS HAVE BEEN REMOVED*

This is a variation on falcon corner.

There are two bolts as you ascend up the lower angle part of the climb towards the falcon corner dihedral. After climbing the dihedral, pull up onto a ledge you can stand on, directly on top of the dihedral. This is actually fun climbing and not that dirty.

From there you can  escape left onto fryable as the normal falcon corner route does.

Or there is a obvious bolt that leads out onto the face, right of the ledge. It ascends the face pretty much directly above the dihedral. Three more bolts on pretty serious choss lead to its own set of anchors above and slightly right of the fryable anchors. The anchors are two nice Stainless steel bolts in solid rock.

We found the face climbing above the dihedral to certainly be the crux but we aren't much of face climbers at all. The choss and blocks coming down certainly made it feel serious. Might be a little harder than 9, might be easier, I'm not at all aware of grade stiffness at hellgate.

If you are top rope belaying someone on this, standing in the alcove is like playing russian roulette with a muzzleloader. We pulled down one chunk the size of persons head and numerous rocks fist sized. 60m rope is a must, not that anyone carries anything else.

It goes up the obvious dihedral in the alcove that is falcon corner but follows the bolts right above it.

Helmet mainly, gear for the dihedral, 5 bolts and anchors.