Uncle Tom

Start to the right of Kill Uncle on Lower Arete and traverses into and continues on Kill Uncle after the first bolt. The traverse is probably the crux of this variation. Going left at the 3rd bolt gives a mellow finish; whereas, trying to go directly up or slightly right at third bolt bumps up the grade to 11d or 12a.

4 bolts to chains. Make sure and have an extended draw for first bolt to reduce rope drag. Stick-clipping first is recommended.