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Peak Mountain 3

Right Squeeze

FA TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lots of good practice standing on small footholds.

Start near right end of this wall, between small alcove and loose vegetated gully.

First aim up toward the 3rd intermediate bolt of

the route "Right Edge"

. Then trend left to keep a few feet away from the right edge of the wall, to finish at the mid-way anchor for

the route "Right Edge"

(which is at its 5th intermediate bolt).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

About four feet left from the right end of the continuous rock of this wall, between small alcove and loose vegetated gully.

See Y on this Photo

Protection

Anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with-climbing rope with rappel ring.

. . . (for more details, see the Mid-way anchor under Protection on

the description page for the route "Right Edge"

).

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Top-Roping: Top anchor could be reached by leading the route "Obelix" or the route "Right Edge".

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.