Tea Crack

Just left of the standard start, there is a squeeze chimney that leads to a fingers-to-hands crack. This is about comparable to the first crux move of

Coxcomb

in difficulty. I was going to call 5.6 until my partner said 5.5. I don't want to be soft, this is the alpine! That being said, make sure you are comfortable at the grade. The rock quality felt worse than Lizard Head due to fewer climbers. One of the handholds started to break off when I pulled on it.

I got a #5 in down low. You could skip it if you are comfortable in chimneys. For the upper crack, use cames #1 to 3 range. Tricams go well due to the flare. Check the rock quality carefully. At the end of crack, finish with easy scrambling to the summit, bring your partner up, and rap/downclimb the tat for the standard route.