Evangeline

This is one of the more popular and better protected roof routes.

This climb starts to the [right] of

Temporary Like Achilles

; uphill 20 yards from

Guenese

. It can be identified by a heavily chalked shelf midway up and a seemingly juggy roof at the beginning. This is a great pitch, .10b over the roof, and pumpy reachy 5.11 climbing up higher on good holds. Once on top of the shelf, the crux breaks left on some sloping holds then angles back right to easier climbing that moves up and left to a two bolt belay. The upper roof can be aided to gain access to two more apparently classic 5.10 pitches, I have not done these however.

The pitch above the roof is excellent, 5.10b/c. The roof is easily aidable and ends up at a big anchor. From there, the climb goes up and right, and then straight up the face to a tricky groove. It finishes up an easy slab to the belay below the Psycho Slab. This pitch is exposed and feels much more commiting than it actually is. It is mostly fixed with old pins and other old gear, and can be protected with small wires and small cams. The Psycho Slab, 5.9, leads to the Upper Ramp.

The upper pitches have some antique gear (pins & bashies) that you should treat with suspect.

There are a few bolts and less than ideal pins protecting this climb. The start is a tad on the hairy side.

Per

Carl Schaefer

: for P1, bring five draws for the 4 bolts and 1 pin and perhaps a cam 0.75-#2 to fill-in between bolt #2 and the pin. The start is a tad on the hairy side, so consider using a stickclip.

According to Levin's guidebook: P2 has four bolts, and P3 has four bolts and several pins.