- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is really one of the best, and often overlooked, lines on the main wall. 3 pitches of great exposure, wild moves (especially the 2nd pitch), and good protection make this a classic.
The crux is low and sandbagged, but the good news is it is well protected and gets easier quickly. The roof is really fun, one of those pitches you just want to run laps on. DO.
P1) 4 bolts. The crux is right at the first bolt; a small cam can be helpful between bolt 1 & 2. (10.b)
P2) 3 bolts. Head up the face past 2 bolts, clip the bolt which protects the airy but easier than it looks roof move, and up to the anchor. (5.9)
P3) 3 bolts A little dirty, especially after rain, but fun pitch. Bring tat for the anchor, it is often old, ratty, or gone. (5.7)
Location
The line of bolts directly at the base of the roof/dihedral to the right of Finger Gag. It's possible to rap from P3 to the top of P1 with a 70m. The webbing on P3 is often missing/useless.
Protection
4 draws, bolted anchors. A small cam (.3-.5) on the first pitch can help between the first 2 bolts.
Routes in The Main Wall
- 22Out of Order5.10bSport