Turning Tricks

This variation finish turns a good route into a great one.

Climb the crux of Single Cat Leg, then hand traverse right on a rail to an extended move right into an overhanging seam. Clip a bolt, then climb a bouldery sequence through slightly overhanging rock to jugs. Move left to a shelf with a 2-bolt anchor.

Tricky, sustained, technical, and pumper at the finish, on great rock; this little gem is at the top of my list of "Best Trad Leads" in Rock Garden Valley.

Warning! The pro is bomber but difficult to place. I led this route after toprope rehearsal.

Take a good selection of small CDs from .3 to .75 inches. One bolt.